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Media Queries certainly aren’t sufficient for large scale applications, but redirecting to an entirely alternative site isn’t sufficient either.
In a Rails environment, I’d be inclined to create a mobile specific layout and use a strain of respond_to to serve mobile specific views where necessary. It’s a much more DRY approach and keeps everything a lot more maintainable.
I fail to see why anyone would break the development process by creating and serving versions of applications specifically for iOS. Apart from visual language, which isn’t really necessary in a web app (being OS agnostic by their nature) the principals of good mobile design apply across iOS, Android, WebOS, etc. Are we likely to start creating OS X or Ubuntu specific versions of a web application?
If people stop mimicking the Apple aesthetic and apply their own sensibilities, rooted in fundamentally good mobile design principals, we’ll end up with much more robust and applicable mobile web apps.